P Johnson FAQs

The Process

1. Appointment

We operate by appointment (or chance…). So please make contact through enquiries and we can organise a consultation or fitting with one of our team.

2. First fitting

Fittings take about an hour. We guide you through all the decisions that go into making your suit and then we conduct the initial fitting.

3. Second Fitting

In about 5-8 weeks time* your suit is delivered and we contact you for a second fitting. If there are any alterations we have these done within a week.

4. From there

We then have your pattern and re-ordering is straightforward. Making changes to your pattern is simple. We can keep as many ‘cuts’ as you wish. The system works in the same way for shirts. 

* Delivery times vary with construction, cloth choice and availability. Occasional delays due to cloth availability happen from time to time.

Read more about our process here

Lines of Suiting

P Johnson Carrara 

Starting at USD 1,695. Our P Johnson Carrara line is crafted in our Tuscan based atelier, Sartoria Carrara. Here we make our suits by hand using traditional artisanal means, resulting in soft and comfortable garments that are beautiful and unique. Allow 6-8 weeks.

P Johnson Pronto

Starting at USD 995. Our Pronto workshop is located just south of Shanghai. At this state of the art facility we combine the best Italian ingredients and construction techniques with the finest cutting-edge technology to produce our signature soft, luxurious and beautifully constructed tailoring.

Our custom made shirts start at USD 145. 

GARMENT CARE ADVICE

REST

Suits, particularly trousers, need rest from wear. They should ideally be worn in rotation with several other suits to prevent excessive and premature wear. To get the best value and longevity out of your suit we recommend an extra pair of trousers.

HANG

Where possible, always attempt to hang your jacket on the provided hanger to retain the shoulder form. If there isn’t a hanger available, using the loop in the collar is the next best thing. A good way to hang trousers is clipped from their base, undone at the waist, using the front press line as a guide. Equally, half-folded over the trouser rail of the hanger is perfect too, but carefully match the press line on the fronts (which is the way you get them from us). Avoid leaving your garments in the sun for extended periods of time (eg. in the back of cars). 

BUCKLE UP

It’s a tricky one to make a habit of, but always take your jacket off before getting in the car. Seat belts wear the jacket shoulder and lapel, and can create a localised shine on the garment. 

LIGHTWEIGHT CLOTHS

P Johnson is a lightweight specialist so we like to deal with many beautifully lightweight merino wools. While these are relatively strong for their weight, some won’t have the lifespan of a more robust double weft cloth over about the 270gm/m mark. Your tailor will discuss what is most appropriate for your needs.

DRY CLEANING

Save some cash at the dry cleaners by making less visits, and use a small, reputable dry cleaner with a premium service. Two to three times a year is probably enough for most suits if you’re using them in a good rotation. Often a pressing is sufficient to freshen up the garment. Hang them outside in the cool and moist night air (under cover and in the suit bag). This will gently rehydrate and recover the cloth. Hanging the suit in the bathroom during a hot shower will also bring the wool back to life a little. If your garment is soiled in only a localised area, ask for a spot clean only, or press a damp cloth gently on the mark. For olive oil drops, apply talcum powder in a small mound onto the spot, then dust off after 12 hours without massaging it into the cloth at all. Ask your dry cleaner to cover horn and shell buttons in foil, so they don’t erode. (This shows you how caustic the chemical process of dry cleaning really is, wool is certainly tough but not that tough). Feel free to drop your suit in to one of our showrooms for a press and freshen up anytime, and have a coffee while you wait. 

SHIRTS

Cold machine or hand wash your shirts (at < 30 deg c is best). The dry cleaning process is a little too harsh and the subsequent pressing is often aggressive. Commercial pressing tends to smash buttons and wear the edges of collars and cuffs, so please only dry clean or commercially launder shirts at your own risk. 

KNITWEAR

Our knitwear is made with underwear gauge knitting, designed to be able to wear onto skin, thus it is a delicate garment. To clean, it's best to handwash in cold water with a tiny amount of very delicate detergent suitable for wool. Store flat in a clean cloth bag. Very gently use a pilling comb if necessary. 

BAGS

Go for a set of wheels. Hanging bag straps over your shoulder may displace the interlinings over time.

BLIND STITCHES

In your trouser hems (and the hem of an unlined jacket) we use blind stitching to secure the hem. This is designed to break so that the cloth itself isn’t damaged. It’s easily recovered, so just drop them in and we’ll do it in minutes. To avoid constant ‘kick-outs’ please put your socks on first and take care putting your foot through the trouser leg’s base.

BUTTONS

Like fingers, buttons don’t like wardrobe doors closing on them. If you crack one, don't sweat - they're a natural product after all. Just drop it back and we’ll fix on a new one. Our buttons are attached with long strong stems, occasionally one might unwind over time, this is easily fixed.

MAINTENANCE

Suits are very strong but they deal with a lot, so like your car, expect maintenance to be required at times.

WEAR AND TEAR (DISCLAIMER)

Wear and tear is normal and eventually unavoidable. P Johnson is not responsible for wear and tear of a garment. Please read the garment care advice and take advice and cautions from your tailor to prolong the life of your garment. Some specific wear and tear is a result of idiosyncratic behaviours, habits and also certain body shapes. (So, it is often unfortunate and unavoidable for the unlucky some. Consult your tailor for the most appropriate cloth if you know you wear in certain areas, and go for a natural fit with your tailor where possible, to take duress off the cloth.)  Trouser wear in the fork is reasonably common for some men who rub in this area. More delicate and luxurious cloths will fail quickly in these conditions and attempting to solve the problem with an added silk saddle will only delay the expected. It’s not a comprehensive solution. It’s unavoidable in many cases and wool suiting cloths may never hold up in the very worst of cases. Take care with abrasive seats in office environments. Textured seats kill suits, and there isn't much that can be done about this damage.  All clear cut merino fabrics we keep in our collection top-scored in the Martindale Pill test. Trousers and jackets in some areas employ blind stitching. Blind stitching is used so that it breaks before the cloth is damaged (as a preservation measure). The hem at the base of a trouser is blind stitched for this reason. 

ADJUSTMENTS

After your first appointment with P Johnson, a second fitting will be organised once the garment is made. During this second fitting the tailor will determine, with you, whether any adjustments need to be made. All adjustments that need to be made are conducted in-house at no cost to the client. In the odd case that a garment cannot be adjusted reasonably, P Johnson will organise for the client to be re-fitted and the garment will be remade. There is no cost to the client undergoing this process.

RETURNS & REFUNDS

P Johnson is committed to our customer's satisfaction with respect to the garment's quality and fit. Because garments are tailored to a customer's specific fit returns will not be accepted. Unless a garment is replaced by P Johnson once the original is deemed, at the absolution discretion of P Johnson management, not fit for purpose.

VOUCHERS

Vouchers are valid for three years from the date of purchase. The voucher must be presented when wishing to redeem it. Vouchers are non-refundable.

What jacket details can I choose from?

We have multiple construction elements and details to choose from.

Canvas: Three chest piece weights, one of which is almost completely uncanvassed. 
Shoulder: 
Four main shoulder expressions, including an unpadded shoulder.
Internal Linings: 
Fully lined, buggy lined and completely unlined, including unlined sleeves if desired.

Jacket details include: 

Lapels: 
Peak, notch and shawl (dinnerwear options inclusive with each, grosgrain or satin). All in a standard width or a wider option.
Closures: 
Single breasted 1 button, 2 button, 3-roll-2 button and several double breasted options.
External Pockets: 
Flaps, jets (beson) or patches, including a special hidden patch pocket option. Flap or jet ticket pocket also available. Chest pocket options are barchetta welt, patch or curved patch.
Internal pockets: 
Standardised to one each side (right side button-closing) and pen pocket left side, in fully lined and half lined jackets a lower left side card pocket as standard. 
Top-stitching: 
Super fine 1mm or 6mm placement and a raised double row. 
Vents: None, Single, Double, Double with vent strap.
Cuff buttoning: 
None, 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 (kissing or non-kissing for each). All cuff buttons are functioning.
Buttons: 
Various options
Monogramming: 
Choose from under collar, 'baffo', and inside lining positions.

What trouser details can I choose from?

Trouser details include:

Waistband: Bare, side adjusters (buckle and strap), belt loops or portofino. Dinner split as standard.
Front: Flat front, single pleat, double pleat. 
Side pockets: Seam, slant or jet.
Back pockets: Jet with button, jet without button, single right side pocket with button, or none.
Lining: None, below the knee (standard with wool), total.
Dinner suit: Braid in satin or grosgrain.
Closure: Zipper or button fly.
Finishing: Turn up 3cm, 4cm, 5cm or none (all are finished with hem tape).

What shirt details can I choose from?

We offer over 20 collar styles, plenty to cover the myriad of faces and shoulder shapes, along with multiple cuff styles. There are choices between real and faux Mother of Pearl buttons, thick or thin, and 3 types of collar and cuff interfacing including an option for no interfacing. We offer back pleats in various forms and the option for none at all. We can make shirts with darts, with chest pockets, with plackets or without. There are various sleeve vent closures including hidden buttons or gauntlet buttons. You can opt for a monogram in contrasting stitch on the cuff, the skirt, the front, the pocket or in the collar. We also make fully handmade shirts in the true Neapolitan style, with micro-pleated yokes, sleeve heads and cuff attachments. Or have it handmade without the micro pleating for the most finessed and beautifully delicate appearance. This includes hand stitched buttonholes. All shirts have a split yoke unless specified. This adds strength to the sleeve attachment.

What makes P Johnson different to other tailors?

We’re a lightweight specialist. We aim to make suiting relevant and highly wearable in all contexts. Our emphasis is on fit and a reductive approach to building a wardrobe. We encourage our clients to slow the process down and carefully, over time, build their ideal wardrobe. We approach it logically and didactically. We discover most client’s tastes and preferences develop as a result of them improving their understanding of what it is that makes the clothing relevant to them. We encourage you to keep in contact with your tailor about your ideas to facilitate this progression. Where at all possible we endeavour to keep you in contact with the same tailor (If you wish to change your tailor please let us know).

What about alterations?

The cost of alterations are cordially included in the initial purchase. We only charge for alterations when it’s a result of a significant and measurable change in build. We only make alterations to P Johnson garments.

What is canvas for, and what is a floating canvas?

Canvas is used in the chest of the jacket to give it shape and structure. It comes in various compositions; mixtures of animal hairs, cottons, linens and other fibres depending on the properties desired. Ours are typically lightweight and do not have linen content (so they can be used with wool suiting and not considered Shatnez in accordance with the Torah). The canvas is combined and then attached to the cloth using many fine stitches (not glues) and is referred to as a floating canvas. This is the genuine and traditional means of construction and allows for fluid movement, drape of the cloth and breathability of the jacket. This is important for a natural appearance in the jacket and allows for the best exploitation of the cloth’s properties.

What is ‘shape and drape’ referring to?

The suit as it’s known to most is a structured garment meaning it employs a chest piece and a shoulder pad to give the jacket a clean and shapely addition to the wearer’s own chest and shoulder. It serves to disguise deficiencies in the body. The more structure, the more elevated and distinguished is the appearance. Drape is quite the opposite. Drape refers to the natural fall and movement of the cloth and aids in creating a more sensual and luxurious appearance. Reducing the internal structures of the jacket allows for more drape, and an increasingly lithe and more natural appearance.

Cloth

Australian super fine merino is still king when it comes to beautiful suiting cloth. We work with the very best technical merino weavers, most of which are based in the Biella area of Piedmonte in North West Italy, using Australian grown merino wool. We also work with some of the classic UK mills for more niche requirements. Our linens are variously sourced from classic Irish to softer Belgian linens, as well as very light Italian. Our cottons are sourced from specialist weavers in the Varese region of Northern Italy, and Japanese weavers as well. Our shirting cloths are Italian spun and woven Egyptian cottons.

Where are P Johnson garments made?

We construct our garments with a number of makers from around the world. We make most of our tailored clothing in our workshop in Tuscany, (for more on Sartoria Carrara click here). We also make some tailored clothing, including our shirt jackets, with partners in China. We make our shirts in both China and Poland and our knitwear in both Italy and China.  In essence our mission is to find the best possible makers from around the world to ensure our garments are of the highest quality and best value.

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Terms and Conditions

All purchases, vouchers, adjustments, refunds, etc are based on our standard terms and conditions.